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It happened a 3rd time. Pressed reset and complains about a bad BIOS checksum and flashes itself back to the original F2 BIOS. So, I flashed it a 4th time to F6a. Got a 4th lockup. This time instead of pressing reset I powered it off. Then powered it back on and it booted normally without...

Didn't even change the Vcore. I just went into the BIOS and changed the multiplier to 45. I got a reboot partway though a test, so went back into the BIOS, found the memory had been set to "Turbo" changed that to "Normal" and changed the PLL voltage to enhanced (I think that's what it called)...

Some Foobar2k FLAC to V1 MP3 (LAME 3.98.4) and FLAC to q.5 AAC (NeroAAC 1.5.4) benchmark results using the 248 FLAC files... 4.5gHz i7-2600K vs. 3.0gHz Q6600: FLAC to MP3 - 2600K was 150.32% faster / shaved 60.05% off the Q6600 time FLAC to AAC - 2600K was 175.61% faster / shaved 63.72% off...

Some Foobar2k FLAC to V1 MP3 (LAME 3.98.4) and FLAC to q.5 AAC (NeroAAC 1.5.4) benchmark results using the 248 FLAC files... 3.4gHz i7-2600K vs. 3.0gHz Q6600: FLAC to MP3 - 2600K was 94.97% faster / shaved 48.71% off the Q6600 time FLAC to AAC - 2600K was 113.21% faster / shaved 53.10% off the...

BD Rebuilder update. The second pass of the test movie end being 80.79% faster. It completed in 4:32:48 on the stock i7 as opposed to 8:13:12 on the 3.0gHz Q6600. So, in summary... 3.4gHz i7-2600K vs. 3.0gHz Q6600: Pass 1 - 2600K was 19.85% faster / shaved 16.56% off the Q6600 time Pass 2 -...

Well, I have had it refuse to boot twice. Both times after being reset decide the BIOS was corrupt was it reflashed itself back to the original BIOS. I'm not sure what that was about. The 3rd time I flashed it to F6A from Windows using their @BIOS utility instead of from DOS (USB boot key)...

What does CoreTemp report?

I wouldn't be too worried about that. Just get something like this.

And how long of a distance is that?

So, I'm in the process of putting together a Sandy Bridge based PC to replace my Q6600 @ 3.0gHz as mentioned in this thread. I went with a i7-2600K + Gigabyte P67A-UD3P + Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus. So far it's together and running at stock speed (3.4gHz) with the 2x2GB of 1333MHz DDR3 I...

The answer to you question is a big fat, "It depends". What will be cable be run next to? What is nearby?

SPDIF (digital) or analog?

And, I'm sure there was no way for you to have known that before you bought them right? :roll:

You'd better get to upgrading then! :poke:

I'm sure that will be Merc's suggestion. :-o

Doesn't WD offer one? If not, try the Hitachi / IBM DFT.

That's what I was wondering.

No, they don't have a battery. It has some sort of voltage trimming circuitry in it that uses relays (presumably multiple taps from a transformer). So, as the voltage levels changes you can hear them click.

It has a subwoofer with a 400+W amp plugged into it.

I didn't even buy a new graphics card. I plan to just re-use the Nvidia 8600GT that's in my Q6600. I will put my older and currently unused Nvidia 7900GS w/ Zalman HSF back in the Q6600. I don't play games so there's no point.

FWIW, the Asus P8P67 PRO would have been $50 more than the Gigabyte P67A-UD3P, so I think I made the right decision given how little time I'll be in the BIOS (since that seems to be the biggest complaint).

Thanks for the comments none the less.

Will do. At 4.5gHz I'm hoping for a 3x increase in speed. :D I think the RAM in every one of my systems is G.Skill except for the AMD system I just built. I bought my DDR3 local for it because I was impatient after UPS lost my Newegg RAM shipment. They've done right by me. The one time I had...

What does the Intel RST Utility say?

In my great room I have two APC H15's. They have switched outlets that are controlled by the trigger outputs on a Pioneer Elite receiver. In my library I have a Belkin PureAV PF60. It has switched outlets that is controlled by one of the trigger outputs on a Pioneer Elite receiver. For my...

I decided to go with the G.Skill Sniper and used the 15% off desktop memory coupon from Newegg. I was a little miffed that in my cart it showed free UPS 3-day shipping and in the checkout process UPS 3-day shipping was $7.41 and only the craptacular "you might get your package in 1.5 weeks"...

Those are only rated for ~100W. He can't plug in a 300W x 3 power amp into it.

That's sort of why I was leaning toward the G.Skill Sniper's. They're low profile and at least one of the review on Newegg was from someone running 4 off them together on a i7-2600K. That and the positive overclocking reports.

I wasn't really planning to OC the memory. But, I guess better cooling on the RAM isn't a bad thing though. I'll give it some thought. Thanks!

So here's my current thoughts: Intel i7-2600K CPU Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P Mobo 2 x G.SKILL Sniper 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus HSF Everything else I have will be re-use.

I don't really care about EFI. I only see it being useful if you care about booting from a HD that is too large to use MBR. (which Gigabyte claims to be able to do without EFI) For as little time as I spend in the BIOS I can handle the basic text only variety. ;)

So, which of the two Microcenter I7-2600k bundles (bottom of the page) would you guys recommend? The $400 one has the Asus P8P67 LE LGA 1155 P67 ATX Intel Motherboard, and the $420 one has the Gigabyte GA-P67A-UD3P LGA 1155 P67 ATX Intel Motherboard. I guess I should mention I would be open to...

The drive doesn't need to support it. However, you shouldn't just yank a drive until you prep it for safe removal. If it doesn't show up in your system tray under the eject hardware icon, use HotSwap!.

Absolutely. Everyone knows the more expensive item is always better. :nono:

So, I waited 6 days and voila! $179.98 after it went up to $229.99 for a few days.

Ah, see... You've already fallen into the Apple trap. ;)

Yes, it can queue / run in a batch mode. :thumbleft:

This video report is definitely worth the 10 minute watch if you're at all interested in photography. Here's the blog with more info / pictures

I don't have any plan to right now. I'd be curious to see know how much faster a i7-2600k overclocked to within an inch of it's life is though. For what very little it's worth, a 4.4gHz i7-2600k gets about 11,550 in PassMark's CPU test whereas a 3gHz Q6600 gets about 3880. A 4.4gHz i7-980X...

Well, I found something that makes my Q6600 @ 3.0gHz feel slow. BD Rebuilder. :(

No, not my fault. I don't have a data plan. :wink:

4G is just going to be used as an excuse to charge you more for data while imposing data caps that didn't exist before.

The incredibly hot sales chick? :drnk:

The problem I have there is 6 good quality 18650 cells don't cost anywhere near $110, so even that seems a tad stiff.

Hah... You should have gotten a smart switch with port mirroring instead. ;)

According to this review, it is ~50% more powerful...

I'd guess the cheapo TP Link switch is just as likely to be the problem as the cables. However, new cables are probably less expensive than a decent switch. I'd examine the cables and replace any that are damaged or not CAT5e rated.

Why would anyone pay 400-600 for any phone? I have a phone to *gasp* make phone calls. I don't need it to take pictures, play mp3s, surf the web, text message people. I just want a good quality durable phone that excels at making phone calls (ie: good reception, good sound quality, good...

Sounds like you're not consistently getting gigabit speeds, but are sometimes only connected at 100Mbit at one or both ends.

Which? There were deals for the X201 around $800 pretty recently.