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I'm so confused... You just got done telling us about the exposure count and photographic gear lost, but you're not a photographer? So you're the Sherpa for the gear, shoot supervisor, production director?

That sounds like one odd NSA/CIA spying trip. ;) Seriously though, who knew Lunar was a National Geographic photographer?

I guess it all depends on why and how you're carrying it. Certainly it's not an EDC or something you'd put in your pocket, however it's not any larger than a 2D Maglite and I don't think that's an unreasonable form factor.

Does it freeze on the way into sleep the 2nd time or out of it?

Which light(s) are you referring to as "so large and heavy"?

Well, they make DC/DC converters that can boost the voltage.

No Deft-X or Firefoxes IV on your list?

Not sure I really have a good suggestion for you. The really bright lights all use multiple batteries. Something like a Skyray King (don't blindly buy one, there are way too many revisions).

That would likely point to a driver issue.

Budget, how long does it need to run, multiple levels? Are you looking for a "Wow! That's bright!" impress your friends light or something actually useful?

Supposedly Facebook has an e-mail authorization step, but my e-mail has gotten signed up a few times despite that. In the bottom of the Pinterest e-mails there's a "Didn't sign up for Pinterest? Please let us know!" link that takes you to a page that tells you roughly how to fill out their help...

If they have enough vertical pixels I don't stress the aspect ratio that much. That said editing and working with FHD video on a system with a 1600x1200 screen isn't the best.

Velcro or let it dangle.

Something about his CIA/NSA spying with his 1 series camera with 400mm lens in a 40kt wind in the rain and sand being 3 travel days away from "home”.

So apparently "Maggie" managed to open a Pinterest account with my e-mail address. You can't submit a request to close it without filling in a bunch of fields like, first name, last name, account name (like I know this...), if you use a computer, phone, etc to access it. The browser you use...

Uh, the Firefox version lets you open a list of blockable items and will show in red what's being blocked.

That's a bit of an oversight on their part considering they don't have it listed anywhere on their webpage.

I'd leave it on the floor.

Well, there are two approaches. Leave it open to the whole inside of the cabinet structure or wall it off. I'd probably favor the latter.

Well, you don't have to tell her. :bomb:

Well the requirements are different between the two methods. Building a sub into a fixed cabinet is not a good idea since placement can make a big difference in output and frequency response at the seats, and it's not moveable when it's built in.

That depends on what you're trying to do. Are you simply making an spot to place a commercial subwoofer, or are you planning to build a DIY subwoofer into that spot where the enclosure of the speaker is also the structure of the cabinetry?

Yes, and it even works correctly maintaining partition alignment, unlike the various commercial tools I tested a few years back.

I have one, the EA8. It's seems fine. The build quality is solid, the finish is nice. It's very throwy, so I don't use it much.

Not for the interior of a sealed box.

Shape doesn't matter. Interior volume does.

Yes, but you're jumping in with both feet.

That's because none of the Li-ion players are trying to push the envelope in anything but a 18650 cell. You can get a 3400mAh 18650, but can only get up to ~4400mAh 26650. If a LiCo 26650 had the same energy density as 18650's there would be 7000mAh 26650 cells. FWIW, Panasonic's roadmap...

Well, you could make sure all your interior lights are daylight balanced. :bstd:

You definitely don't want ports. Those Polk look like they are intended to fire into the open wall. That's not really feasible if you're putting them in a cabinet. I guess you would want to make a sealed box that's the volume of a typical 2x4 x 8' stud cavity. Something with a sealed back...

Yeah, and they have like 1/3rd the energy in them and don't work in a standard Li-Ion charger.

Most in wall speakers are less than $3k for the front three unless you're looking at ones from M&K or Atlantic Technology. Something like this ($1300 each + $200 for the box that goes in the wall for it). For example Polk's most expensive in-wall is $500.

How deep is your budget and how particular are you? Are you looking for nice audio, or the ultimate in home theater reproduction?

It's like testing a bunch of screwdrivers to see which one makes the best hammer. Unless you routinely need to use a screwdriver as a hammer the whole thing is basically pointless.

Have you looked at "high end" in wall speakers?

Not really. Depending on how your charger works you might get a tiny bit more energy into the cell at the lower rate, but that's in the noise relatively speaking.

On cylindrical 18650 cells you only want to stay below the max charge rating of the cell. On most that's .3C (C as in capacity not amps), however the 3400 Panasonic cells are rated to .5C (1.7A).

Yes and no. A speaker moves from a half space radiator to a full space radiator when the wavelength of the sound waves become longer than the dimensions of the front baffle. Crossovers account for this 6dB step created by the the baffle's effect on the frequency response. When you build a...

The enclosure isn't the problem. That's the easy part. It's picking the right drivers that work well together and then building a suitable crossover. It is no easy feat.

Amazing!!! I plan to use them in my HT (if I ever finish it).

Child's play... :p This is what you really want!

Are you looking to DIY or not? If you want DIY the only acceptable acoustically transparent screen material I'm aware of is the Seymour AV. They sell prefab also. Basically you want a woven AT screen, not a perforated screen.

Well, you're effectively trying to put a speaker inside another box. That doesn't do good things for acoustics and will pretty much eliminate any rear ported speakers. I'd suggest looking at high end in wall speakers, speakers that have the necessary controls / adjustments for flush baffle...

Don't you mean enabled? When the write caches are disabled the data is written directly to the disc and system waits for that to happen before moving on. The chances for data loss or corruption are much smaller.

I'd make sure you check with Adam that the speakers have a setting that allows them to be baffle mounted. Mounting them flush with an opening in the wall just barely bigger than the speaker itself will have a significant impact on their frequency response. Some active speakers have settings to...

It's not that hard to clone from one drive to another, so you wouldn't have to reinstall things, but if you're already over 50GB, a 60GB SSD is too small.

I have the same question this report as the last one. Where was power disabled from? Were the mains switched or the power to the drive while the rest of the system stayed powered? The report says that no drive failed when the mains were switched with the OS up and booted... If you have to...

It does... I missed that detail.

What about the downpipe and upgraded fuel pump?

The for sale section of a PC enthusiast forum might be your best bet.