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Nice, 5k, 48fps, using 48 Red Epic cameras....damn.

I just installed one of these two days ago. First one of theirs I've ever dealt with. Seems solid at this point.

Nope, I bought a couple dozen of them and only one is still working.

I would agree, unless you are coming from the entry-level with tons of Canon glass and not a lot of other video infrastructure. Quite a few have made the transition into video using nothing more than 5DIIs and CF cards, those might be tempted to stick with the Canon solution.

I still prefer my Herman Miller Aeron ;)

The master bedroom is lively enough; the more dead I can make it the better for my health.

I'm not sure how important it is these days, but it used to be that they all tried to screw you, they all had poor customer service, and they all had random dead spots even in metropolitan areas. The best you could do was find someone who already had service where it mattered to you and choose a...

Thanks for the tip, I'll need to play it some more.

I have a couple dozen 1TB and 2TB drives I pulled from various storage arrays when they went to 3TB. Looks like they'll be going into desktops before long...

An excellent thought. Be sure to include a real keyboard, typing anything long on the screen is a pain. Also get something that can print in a non-retarded way.

Side walls are better for that kind of thing. Or so I've heard.

Hadn't heard about it before now. Looks really nice. For all those movie people where 5DII money just didn't matter. I remember reading a workflow somewhere that included a dozen 5DIIs per team. Those guys would go for this.

Me. But I'd be hesitant about reliability as a direct connected drive. Didn't we have issues with the 3TB drives as well?

When talking to my wife I refer to the house as a "toy" not a computer ;)

'salright Lunar, I was hogging the bullseye lately anyway.

Sweet. Just last night I got the OK from the wife to do the ceiling and headboard wall in the master bedroom. I've been granted 2".

Indeed. But this house is old enough that the subfloor is 3+ times thicker than modern houses. Now they use 3/4" plywood, my house has 2x6 dimensional lumber. With that much more for the heat to work through, significantly more heat will be lost to the underside of the house.

A worthy 6,000th post, Coug.

But since you'll be dead, why not shoot without cards at all? Save the money for a fancy gravestone or something?

Indeed. It looks like we'll have to install the flooring at the same time. This means we may only do part of the house now and the rest later. I also plan on insulating under the subfloor, using my favorite FoamItGreen.

Yeah...that is one of the questions I have. Now that I have a better understanding, we'll see what I can find out.

We get about 200 sunny days a year. Of course, the ones that aren't sunny are the cold ones ;)

I just read that including a solar pre-heater makes the entire system 30% tax deductible.

InFloorBoard is the thinnest solution I've found (5/8" - 15.8mm). That would allow me to put 1/2" of foam insulation underneath it to make sure the heat goes up instead of down.

That is one of my thoughts. With the exception of morning showers, all other uses of hot water (dishwasher, laundry) run during the day when it is warm. My hot water heater could use a replacement anyway.

I have a garage, and it would be installed there. I do have access to natural gas, but I would like to "zone" my house, being able to control whether 3 different zones get heat independently. From my research doing zoning with forced air while keeping the system "balanced" is tricky and...

Asrock, like being rocked in the ass, is cool, if you're into that kinda thing. Me? I'm with Coug, but I wasn't going to buy an Asrock board anyway.

Wow. I can't imagine what the workflow of your first pass though them must look like. How often do you spend reviewing each picture the first time through before culling the stack?

New project. Thoughts: 1. Using a heatpump waterheater should make this more efficient than using a boiler? 2. The thinnest systems I can find are about an inch thick. I'll be installing onto my subfloor (2x6 T&G) and would like to sacrifice as little headroom as possible. Anyone know anything...

Looks like this is getting scrapped. I was putting the budget together for it, and was informed that that money is to be redirected to a proper hydronic underfloor system. A more sane option, no doubt, but less exciting. If anyone here knows anything about underfloor heating, I'd love to hear...

That is what I'm currently looking at, or rooting the tablet and making it the hotspot...

Yup, whether it happens or not, it is a fun thought experiment with plenty of humor ;)

I was tempted to not even include the water cooling in the first post, and start with my objective: "My computers produce some heat that I would like to use to heat my bedroom, and I can't move my computers". Water just seemed like the best way to do it, though sechs' bricks might get a second...

Yes, but it is hard to sleep while moving bricks. I suppose with training.... That is what I'm currently doing, though at night there is no need to heat the main room (5000+cu.ft.). And while the computers aren't enough heat to do the whole house, I'm sure it would be enough for what we need...

That wouldn't be much fun, and would be outside my budget. I would absolutely use a heatpump if I weren't already using the electricity on the computers.

If the reservoir were at the highest point, the mass of the water on the downward leg would be pressing upon the water on the upward leg. No?

Nice tip! I'll look into those.

One watt/hour of electricity put into a computer, resistive heater, or lightbulb produces one watt of heat. One watt put into a heatpump produces (technically moves) several watts of heat. If I wasn't already using the electricity to do something else, I'd be using a heat pump. Thinking on...

Thinking about this further, the reservoir could be above the devices to be cooled without increasing the energy required to move the water, correct?

As am I. There are a few ways to mitigate this, and I think the easiest one is a thermal sensor on a waterblock that kills power to the machine if it exceeds a threshold. No need for software or anything fancy, just a sensor and a relay. I should start looking for those, but these machines have...

Indeed. Last night my wife turned on a 600W electric heater in the bedroom and it cycled on and off all night; I suspect it was on about 30% of the time. According to the power calculators I've been looking at, my overvolted, overclocked CPUs are putting out about 200W each, with the GPUs the...

I remember from long ago the overclockers using just one stick of ram, and here I am using 6. Not going to pull any of it, but I suppose 4.46 isn't bad with 24GB of RAM.

Me too, 49% complete on the 990X.

Now that winter is approaching (it'll hit 38F tonight), it is time to re-evaluate utilizing the waste heat from my computers to heat the bedroom. The following are the reasons I know why this is a bad idea (to discourage anyone else reading this from trying it). 1. Electric resistive heating...

Today should be a good day. 990X@4.4Ghz 970@3.8Ghz 4x GTX580 If it gets colder, I'll get some more stuff going.

...and when the driver decides to put their foot down. If I could, I'd get one with no badges at all.

First audible laugh of the day awarded to SD!

This is an issue for me as well. One that I have nearly solved by shaving in the shower as a final step. By that time I've been "steamed/heated" to the point where it is nearly painless unless I wait 3+ days between shaves. No shaving cream needed, but shaving properly without a mirror requires...

Indeed. Same shifter as my (DSG) car.

I was always under the impression that the performance Audi vehicles were supposed to be sleepers. If you want bling, go BMW (a million badges, exposed carbon fiber roof, etc)