USB 3.0 Cases

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The NZXT cases aren't that cheap for me. The Silverstone PS04B is AU$40 if I want a cheap mid-tower, albeit with USB 2.0 and only 6 HDD bays, and a more dated look. :(

I could probably sell someone an NZXT Vulcan, though ...
 

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Here's a mini-review on two of the SilverStone cases.

Firstly, I have to take back what I said about the GD-06 being a great design. Although it's impressive what they've managed to pack into such a short depth case, I found it an absolute nightmare to work on.

Just as a reminder, they've included two caddy-less hotswap bays. To fit all the drive mounts, the internals on that side in particular are in 3D. Every available surface has been used, even internal surfaces of the subassemblies. It's insanely complex to disassemble/reassemble - I had to resort to the user manual and still wound up unable to match up all the screws (there are at least 3 different sizes).

To be fair, I was using 3 drives, and the massive Seasonic power supply cabling was a huge PITA to manage with so many subassemblies taking up all sorts of spaces. But this is with no graphics card. :eek:

To mount the third drive (an SSD), it was necessary to remove the entire left hand side drive assembly that includes the hotswap bays. But then I found I could not get both SATA and power cables plugged into the drive. :(

As an aside, 2.5" drives tend to be mounted on their bottom so you need straight SATA cables, which need more space. Right-angle SATA cables are the wrong way round. Over-sized power cables are a particular PITA.

So I ended up disassembling the drive assembly into two parts and using a mounting point inside the top of the metalwork. With three sets of drive cables poking out in different places, the challenge then was getting everything back together without breaking something.

It took hours and hours and annihilated one of my primary criteria for this build, which was that it should be easy for a technician to work on in the future. :(

BTW, that whole left hand side assembly is too heavy for the thin piece of metal that holds it all together. I shipped the drives separately because I had a real fear that it would buckle in transit.

This is a positive pressure case, so the 3 120mm fans are pushing way too much air for my liking - the intake filters will be clogged in no time. But I didn't have three fan speed controllers on hand to restore sanity.

To rub salt into the wound, the motherboard I used did not have a 20-pin USB 3.0 header, so I used the supplied USB 2.0 to USB 3.0 adapter, but one of the ports does not work. I assume SilverStone's adapter was faulty.

From a user perspective, the finished product is great. The hotswap bays work very well. If you do use one, I'd strongly recommend a modular power supply - except the case is already pricey and that will make the whole exercise even more expensive.
 

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The second review is of the slimline ML03. I've used several of them and like them a lot. Everything is laid out cleanly and it's fairly easy to work on.

The 2 steel rods make the case quite strong, it's definitely a SilverStone. ;) My intention was to mount them on their side and rely on convection cooling, but they seem to run cool enough just sitting on a desk.

Negatives include the somewhat haphazard alignment of the lid screws (it's definitely made in China) and the known PSU and DVD depth limits. Because I used Seasonic, the heavier than normal cable mass protruded some distance from the PSU, requiring a fair amount of downward pressure on the DVD drive to line up with its mounting holes. Apart from the expense, I suspect that a modular supply could work much better all round in such a small (17L) case, provided the plugs didn't protrude too far. But it's no big deal.

User impressions are favorable; it looks more modern and professional than other white box builds. As long as the price stays low, I'd highly recommend it for business use or as a neat little HTPC.
 

CougTek

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Do you install additional 80mm fans on the side, or you leave it as-is? Personally, I wouldn't put additonal fans for a low-end build, but anything with a 95W or more processor, I would install two 80mm (low speed) right aside the CPU.
 

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Guilty as charged, guv'nor.

I was planning to use a single 80mm fan next to the CPU - either blowing or sucking depending on how the case was mounted.

But there's tons of holes in the case and frankly, the stock CPU fan seemed to create enough case throughflow (it has a vent with optional magnetic filter directly above it). I've used both 95W i5 and 65W G840; didn't do any serious stress tests, but a) I can't see that being relevant under the intended usage, and b) my assessment is that there is no chance of overheating without help from a graphics card. And even then, given it's restricted to low-profile cards.

Seriously, you can feel air movement through the size vents just from the CPU fan, which is pretty much mission accomplished (without a graphics card).
 

CougTek

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...and b) my assessment is that there is no chance of overheating without help from a graphics card. And even then, given it's restricted to low-profile cards.
You would be surprised how much power a low profile graphic card could use.

What's the clearance for the CPU cooler? I'm thinking about using a Thermalright AXP-140 (70.2mm height) with a low-profile 120mm fan (12mm height) inside that case and I'd like to know if I'm dreaming in colors. I'll probably be limited to something less efficient like the Scythe Big Shuriken.
 

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Although it might fit, it would be awfully close to the lid, vent or not. It is after all, a low profile case - about 95mm thick in fact.

I guess it would be fine if your aim is silent computing - and it fits. Where do they measure that heatsink from, the top of the CPU or the motherboard surface?
 

CougTek

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Top of CPU. I'm pretty sure it won't fit since you have to figure the motherboard stands+motherboard thickness+CPU thickness in that 95mm height. Too bad.
 

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Perhaps you could do something like this?

Nissan-Supercharger-600.jpg


Courtesy of www.modified-cars.info
 

CougTek

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SPCR reviewed the Silverstone Temjin TJ08 and liked it more than the FT03. Overall, it's a smaller enclosure too (30.28 liters versus 33 for the FT03), although it occupies more space on a desk. They include a 20pins USB3 to USB2 header in case your retarded motherboard doesn't have an internal USB3 connector.

Anantech reviewed it too and they liked it equally. The verdict seems to be that it's flimsy and hard to assemble, but very efficient for its size. The front fan is too noisy and should be replaced for a silent computer.

I mentioned it before, but the Asus Maximus IV GENE-Z has USB 3 headers AND two CPU fan connectors. It seems like a perfect fit for that enclosure.
 

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The front fan is too noisy and should be replaced for a silent computer.

I guess you read different versions of the reviews to me.

Silent PC Review said:
The key to its success is the massive 18 cm Air Penetrator intake fan that draws in cool air from the exterior and blows it over the hard drive cage and most of the motherboard. Even at low speed, this monster helped the TJ08-E to a small, but decisive victory over both the Fortress FT03 and Lian Li PC-V354.

Silent PC Review complained about the flex in the top of the case, but I think they were being a bit foolish here by commenting before the PSU and optical drive were screwed in.

They also thought that assembly was "effortless" and "almost carefree". They did achieve much better noise results than stock by lowering the fan voltage to 9-10V.

Anandtech, on the other hand, had no complaints about the noise of the fan or the strength of the case, but found it "can be a royal pain to actually assemble", although "for anyone who's going to build once and then maybe add something a year or so in the future it's an excellent choice".

Silent PC Review said:
While it has a few issues, SilverStone Temjin TJ08-E is our favorite microATX case to date. Not only does it offer excellent thermal/acoustic performance, it's quite functional as well. The design is incredibly well-thought out, maximizing both compatibility and convenience in the compact space.

Anandtech said:
Awesome Performer, But Needs Care ... It's a fantastic enclosure...now if they could just make it easier to build.
 

CougTek

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From SPCR's review :
Our only other quibble is the fan speed switch which needs an additional setting as "low" is simply not low enough for our liking.
You have to mod the fan to make it silent. Not that it's noisy, but it's not silent.
 

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Silverstone TJ08-E
30 liter Mini-tower, 385mm depth, 5x 3.5" + 1x 2.5" HDD, 180mm + 120mm fans.
 

CougTek

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The i7 980 cost me the same amount as the i7 970, so why opt for the retarded kid brother? I wouldn't put a 300W graphic card in such a small case. A Radeon HD 6950 2GB sips a bit less juice and is still a very powerful graphic card. That's the highest I would climb for that build. And even that is a bit insane.
 

CougTek

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BTW, you know you can't use a long power supply in that case unless you forget about using an internal optical drive? And it better be modular or cabling will be a nightmare (and impede air flow).
 

Mercutio

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Is there another socket that gives me 6 Intel hyperthreaded cores?

Not at the moment, but I'm curious to know what sort of workload your customer needs six hyperthreaded cores vs. four generally faster hyperthreaded Sandy Beach ones.
 

Santilli

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It looks like somebody ordered the wrong engine.

Looks like the build DD is thinking about, analogy wise. Appears to be
a 8-71 Jimmy blower, which is usually put on a big block, 427 or bigger, Chevy. Means the entire car has to be pretty much a funny car.

Wonder if they used NO2 as well?
 

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There's a gene for overpriced motherboards now?! Give that all boards with this gene use the name "Rampage" I assume it's a dominant gene. My current board is also an Asus (P8P67 Pro), so should I get my PC tested for this gene? Or do I already know that my board is at least a carrier based on it's phenotype ($170 pricetag)?
 

ddrueding

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I really hate ASUS, but it looks to be the only high-end motherboard that is both 1366 and miniATX. In fact, I scrubbed miniATX just because I would have had to deal with an ASUS board.
 

CougTek

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MiniATX isn't a standard. There's miniITX and µATX and the µ stands for "micro", not "mini". There's (obviously) no LGA1366 miniITX board. The only other LGA1366 board I know is the MSI X58M (I used to own one). The MSI X58M is semi-high-end, despite its price tag. It has no SATA 6Gbps ports and no USB 3.0 ports either. It has eSATA and Firewire ports though.
 

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I wouldn't put a 300W graphic card in such a small case.

Anandtech actually tested with a GTX580 - the cooling was excellent, so it doesn't seem like DD is taking any kind of risk here.

Also, it's worth remembering that a standard ATX PSU is actually just 140mm deep. As capacity increases, the depth goes to 150, 160 and even 170mm. A Seasonic X750 is 160mm deep, which is the recommended limit for this case. That's enough for 2 GTX580.
 

LiamC

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Here's a challenge for ya!

I'm interested in a new case that must meet the following criteria:

No more than 420mm/16.5" deep
At least 2 front USB, one at least USB 3.0
Washable intake air filters.
Can take ATX motherboard
No more than 255mm/10" wide (a little flexibility here)


Optional/Wish list
Front IEEE1394
Able to take 160mm high CPU cooler
Plenty of case cooling options


It's the case depth/USB 3.0 that has been my stumbling block so far
 

CougTek

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Buy a Lian Li PC-C60 and run it on the side (PSU at the bottom). The only two things you'll be missing from your list are a front Firewire port (use the one on the motherboard back panel) and the support for 160mm and up CPU cooler (buy a Noctua NH-C14). The maximal cooler height must be close to 160mm though. It's 410mm deep and 182mm wide if used on the side. That's the best I've found in an hour of research.

c60-10.jpg
 

LiamC

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Thanks Coug. That might be a goer. The problem with the PS on the bottom is it's going to pick up the dust that is the reason for the filters.
 

time

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Very funny. :p Let me rephrase that for the resident pedants:

Any particular reason for the ATX size motherboard requirement? That is, have you already bought one, are you planning to run quad graphics cards, etc?
 

CougTek

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He can't run a quad graphic cards setup because most graphic cards have dual-slot coolers and there's only space for a single slot cooler in the bottom slot. He could, however, put an MSI Big Bang X-Power with 7 AMD FirePro 2460 single slot graphic cards and control 28 displays if he so desires.

But not a "typical" gaming quad graphic cards setup.
 

CougTek

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You would need IPS displays because you'll have viewing angles issues with TN panels. The two most notorious current IPS panels that come to my mind are the HP ZR24W and the Asus PA246Q. The HP consumes 88W on average (when turned on) while the Asus takes 75W. While trivial, that difference becomes huge on a 28 units scale. So we go with the Asus PA246Q, but we'll still need a temperature-controlled room as just the displays will eat (and dissipate a good part of) 2100W of power. The PA246Q sells for ~500$ each, so that's a 14000$ expense. It comes with a 6 feet long DVI cable, but you won't fit all 28 displays within 6 feet of the computer, so you'll have to figure an additional expense for a good part of the 28 monitors (I would guess about 24 of them will need longer cables). There are good DVI cables at Newegg that cost 24$ for either 15ft or 25ft. So make that 24$ x 24 cables : 576$.

The FirePro 2460 is approximately 235$ individually. That's 1645$ of graphic cards globally. They come with 4 mini-DisplayPort to DVI adapters, so you won't have to think about converting the interfaces.

Since you're Ddrueding, you can't possibly opt for a lesser processor than the i7 980 (not X) to nest on the MSI Big Bang X-Power. The CPU will impoverish you (or more probably your customer) of ~550$ while the motherboard will contribute another 280$ to your journey to misery. 24GB of 1333MHz Kingston DDR3 RAM will add 140$ to the spending orgy.

The power supply can be modest. The FirePro have frugal needs (less than 20W each). Any modular 500-600W will do. Modular, yes. The space is quite limited inside the Lian Li PC-C60. Why not an almost silent Seasonic X-560? 127$. The Lian Li is 190$ itself.

Miscellanous components : DVD burner (~20$) and boot drive (Intel 320 series 80GB - 160$). I'm sure multiple 3TB drives are in your plans, but I'll leave them out of the price for now. Operating system? Take one license from your MSDN account. Keyboard and mouse ; generic wired will do : 25$. And a couple of power bars, let's say 2 Belkin 112234-10 at 26$ each. And one UPS for the computer and the remaining 4 monitors : APC BR1500G (190$).

Grand total : 17955$


Put the monitors on tablets. Otherwise, add the cost of mounting arms.

Am I derailing this thread?
 

ddrueding

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Indeed. Like I said, really fun to build.

Considering my test rig includes three Axis Q1755-E cameras (5MP @ 30FPS, $1700 each) and the necessary accessories (IR Floodlights, power injectors, cabling, mounts, and a 50' tall tower to mount some of them on), it isn't that bad ;)
 

LiamC

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Any particular reason for the ATX size requirement?

At the moment I'm using an ATX Asrock P67 Pro3 to power my i7 2600K. Before that I was using a uATX M4A785. I only use a single video card, so I've got nothing against using uATX. But when I bought the P67 Pro3 (AU$140), the only uATX P67 motherboard I could get was an Asus for $185 (with three week wait for stock). So I went with the ATX.

I was hoping to explore Bulldozer later this year, but indications at the moment are that it is in the original Phenom class (slow (er than initially promised), late and hot). Besides, motherboard makers seem to think that early adopters want ATX motherboards. uATX models with similar features seem to take a while longer to come out.

The depth requirement is from where the box is situated at the moment (in an armoire), though this will change with renovations in the mid-term.

More pressing is the need for air filters. On the AMD I was using a CNPS 9700NT, and on the 2600K, I'm using a Noctua NH-U12P SE2, and both fans needed the dust cleaned out of them every two months. Running folding on the box 24/7 is the contributor to that. At the moment, I'm using an Antec NSK 1650, but it's limited in it's cooling (unless I get creative with a Dremel, but given my metal working skills, I'm more likely to create a mess than solve a problem.
 
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