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Thread: Audio Equipment

  1. #401
    I can't believe I'm a Fixture LunarMist's Avatar
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    But yours would be all wrinkled and creased.
    --Lunar

  2. #402
    I can't believe I'm a Fixture LunarMist's Avatar
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    How far can I run a line level audio coax cable without picking up to too much noise/hum?
    --Lunar

  3. #403
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    SPDIF (digital) or analog?

  4. #404
    I can't believe I'm a Fixture LunarMist's Avatar
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    Just a regular RCA cable.
    --Lunar

  5. #405
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    By shielding the heck out of it? Take a look at that quad-shielded stuff they use for cable TV runs.
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  6. #406
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    Quote Originally Posted by LunarMist View Post
    Just a regular RCA cable.
    The answer to you question is a big fat, "It depends".

    What will be cable be run next to? What is nearby?

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
    The answer to you question is a big fat, "It depends".

    What will be cable be run next to? What is nearby?
    I'll probably run it around the doorway and along the wall into a computer speaker adjacent to the bed. I may just run one channel and only use one speaker.
    --Lunar

  8. #408
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    And how long of a distance is that?

  9. #409
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    That is what I'm trying to figure out. I suppose it depends on the length of the cables. I see some are 25' or 20'.
    --Lunar

  10. #410
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    I wouldn't be too worried about that. Just get something like this.

  11. #411
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    I'll second stereodude, that will be fine for <30 feet. And Monoprice's prices are still unbelievable.

    I just got the 4x4 HDMI matrix switch and a bunch of cables last night. Today is play time.
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  12. #412
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    ...and it's a good thing the cables are so cheap...because I ordered the wrong ones (1.5' HDMI extensions instead m/m cables).
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  13. #413
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
    I wouldn't be too worried about that. Just get something like this.
    Thanks. However, I've decided to give up on the bedroom for now.
    --Lunar

  14. #414
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    Here is the end result of playing around with making my own speaker cables now with GLS locking banana connectors.

    I chose to cut the extra length off the wire pant boots because I felt it looked disproportional. Some people leave the full length on, but I didn't care for it.

    (click to enlarge)




























  15. #415
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    Wow. Looks like you put quite a bit of time into those.
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  16. #416
    I can't believe I'm a Fixture LunarMist's Avatar
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    Cool. Now you can sell them for $5K.
    --Lunar

  17. #417
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    Quote Originally Posted by LunarMist View Post
    Cool. Now you can sell them for $5K.
    Nah, he needs to build them up some more and put them inside a garden hose with the ends cut off first.

  18. #418
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddrueding View Post
    I just got the 4x4 HDMI matrix switch and a bunch of cables last night. Today is play time.
    Finally got all the cabling to make this work, and it is just as advertised.

    Inputs:

    Computer 1
    Computer 2
    PS3

    Outputs:

    Left Desk
    Right Desk
    Projector
    Bedroom

    The only annoyance is a <1sec blackout when adding an additional output to an existing channel. If I've been watching "Computer 1" on "Right Desk" and add "Projector", the display on "Right Desk" goes blank for a moment.

    And the price can't be beat.
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  19. #419
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    Looking to get a stereo line-out from the bedroom to the amp in the equipment closet, and get the signal for the subwoofer back to the room. I have a pair of CAT5 cables to do it.

    Is this what I'm looking for? What is the difference between the top three items? Is there something better I should be looking at? The run is ~75' of CAT5.

    I also need a small powered sub to fit under the bed (6-7" high max).
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  20. #420
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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  21. #421
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddrueding View Post
    Looking to get a stereo line-out from the bedroom to the amp in the equipment closet, and get the signal for the subwoofer back to the room. I have a pair of CAT5 cables to do it.

    Is this what I'm looking for? What is the difference between the top three items? Is there something better I should be looking at? The run is ~75' of CAT5.

    I also need a small powered sub to fit under the bed (6-7" high max).
    The first unit converts four unbalanced RCA audio into a balanced run over CAT5. You would use this one to connect the preamp output from your receiver into this unit to send to the next unit.

    The second unit converts four balanced audio (the CAT 5) into unbalanced RCA. You would connect this into your amplifiers preamp input.

    The third unit can do either of the above two, but limits you to two channels where as the other two have four channels. I think you could use this to send signals in both directions.

    I think you would need one of each of the first two. BLD10 and BLR10

    I see the pathing as follows:

    Receiver preamp out > BLD10 RCA in > BLD 10 CAT5 >>>>>> BLR 10 CAT5 > BLR10 RCA out > amplifier RCA in.

  22. #422
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    If you're open to other options, you may also be able to use a balanced to unbalanced converter and run the balanced XLR cables the long distance.

    Now that I've reread your original post, you may want the BLX 10 because it sounds like you need to go a long distance and then come back. You might need two of them. since you need an input and an output on both ends of the 75' run.

    Are you trying to do this:

    Stereo out bedroom > BLX 10 >>>>CAT 5>>>> BLX10 > Amp in equipment closet (amp for what?)

    Subwoofer input bedroom < BLX10 <<<<CAT 5<<<< something producing a subwoofer signal

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddrueding View Post
    Do you need such a mini subwoofer?

  24. #424
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    There are speakers in the ceiling in the bedroom, driven by an amp in the equipment closet. These speakers don't quite have the low-end I would like, so I want to add a sub. The only place to put it is under the bed, which has a 7" clearance.

    I would also like to have the option of feeding the amp with a source from the bedside (laptop, portable music device, etc).

    So. I need a way to get audio from a 1/8" jack in the bedroom to the amp in the closet, and a way to get the subwoofer signal from the amp in the closet back to the sub under the bed.

    Sorry for not being more clear in the original post; I'm still figuring this out myself.
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  25. #425
    Storage? I am Storage! Howell's Avatar
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    Have you looked at the Sonos equipment?

  26. #426
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howell View Post
    Have you looked at the Sonos equipment?
    Their stuff is pretty expensive. I liked the features and price points of the Logitech Squeezebox series better than the Sonos.

  27. #427
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howell View Post
    Have you looked at the Sonos equipment?
    I'm trying to keep to the most basic, standardized systems possible. I have enough custom UIs and dedicated software management apps already. I just want a cable from A to B.
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  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddrueding View Post
    I'm trying to keep to the most basic, standardized systems possible. I have enough custom UIs and dedicated software management apps already. I just want a cable from A to B.
    "A cable"?

    You know that some of the multi room systems, like the one from Naim can be integrated with home automation systems? And the Squeezebox and Sonos have their own remote controls, just like the Onkyos or your TV.

  29. #429
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    Balanced runs were developed to neutralize interference to low level signals over long distances. In short, dynamic microphones in a PA situation.

    You have high signal levels (1V RMS) and a modest distance (23m). Unless you have industrial machinery in the ceiling, I doubt that you need to set up balanced runs.

    You could use a single 4-core shielded cable to manage both directions and still have a spare core. Make sure it's only earthed at the receiver end and that shielding is maintained through the breakout at each end, and you should be sweet.

    You can test this before installation by just connecting something via a 75' shielded cable and checking for audible noise or hum.

  30. #430
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by fb View Post
    "A cable"?

    You know that some of the multi room systems, like the one from Naim can be integrated with home automation systems? And the Squeezebox and Sonos have their own remote controls, just like the Onkyos or your TV.
    Yeah, I know. I'm in charge of several home automation/home lighting/whole house audio systems. Ne Hochu. The things they all have in common:

    1. Massive cost
    2. Technology lock-down (what they offer is what they offer, when the next thing comes out, buy their new system)
    3. Custom specific interfaces ($10k touchscreens, funny wall panels that don't match anything else, support for iPods but not something else)

    A cable is compatible with whatever I want, and can interact with my systems any way I choose.
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  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
    Do you need such a mini subwoofer?
    http://www.buy.com/prod/yamaha-new-s...206460118.html

    $165.

    Ultimate would be mounting the bed on D-box actuators.

  32. #432
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    You could also try offering OneCall a lower price and see if they accept it. Just click the link that says "Tell us your price".

  33. #433
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    I decided to order the Belkin PureAV PF60 and it was supposed to be here today. Instead I had a police officer at my door when I got home to tell me it had been stolen. lol Likely some kids took it and once they opened it and found how boring it was, the ditched it. Now the police are going to hold on to it as evidence for some length of time.

  34. #434
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    So the delivery company had put it on your porch, someone took it, opened it, and abandoned it in a public location, where it was brought to the attention of the police, who then sent someone to your house to wait for you to get home?

    Wow. That is pretty wild.
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  35. #435
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    Yup, it shipped UPS from amazon. Between the time they left it and the time I got home, someone snagged it. An anonymous person phone it in to the police as abandoned at a park near by. The police came and picked it up but didn't find the person who called it in (yet).

    They then stopped over to my house first but no one was home yet. he then went to UPS to inform them of the issue and gave them a case number. Then he stopped back at my house and my girlfriend was home so he talked to her first. He then went door to door around the neighborhood asking people if they saw anyone and during that time I got home just as he was on his way back to my house. He told me he has to keep it as evidence for a while in case they find someone (unlikely). I can then get in contact with them to reclaim it. He said it was open but didn't look damaged.

    I called amazon and the guy was nice. He has never had a case like this so he had to put me on hold for a while. He said he couldn't replace the item but would refund me the cost since it was through a third party seller. He did ask for the case ID which I had, so all is good. Now I just wait to see if I can get it back and some how it looks like it'll be for free...albeit slightly opened and used. Assuming it's not broken...that's a decent deal considering the small inconvenience.

  36. #436
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    Wow. I understand that the police need to pursue crime, it is what they do and crime is a bad thing, but I wonder what the cost of just your case is.
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  37. #437
    Storage? I am Storage! Pradeep's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by ddrueding View Post
    Wow. I understand that the police need to pursue crime, it is what they do and crime is a bad thing, but I wonder what the cost of just your case is.
    The cost of a prosecution will almost always exceed the value of items stolen etc. You can't have people stealing shit from peoples front stoops.

    Handruin: I would change your courier permissions so they either get a signature or take it back to the local depot for personal pickup.

  38. #438
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    Quote Originally Posted by Pradeep View Post
    You can't have people stealing shit from peoples front stoops.
    Hey, if someone wants to steal a stinky turd from the porch more power to them.

  39. #439
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    I finally got the Belkin unit back from the police station this morning. The box was torn to pieces, but the unit was without damage. I plugged it in and it turned on. I haven't had a chance to connect anything up to it yet, but it's pretty basic so I'm not expecting any issues.

  40. #440
    Storage? I am Storage! mubs's Avatar
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    Question for audiophiles and specifically to SD:

    How good is the Aphex Aural Exciter? It's about $350, so it better be good.

    The bulk of my music suffers from lack of bottom and top end because of poor recording. The premise of the Exciter is it puts back what's missing - harmonics. I've been mulling buying it for the last 30 years, but keep forgetting about it. Right now I can't afford it anyways, but perhaps sometime in the future.

  41. #441
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    The complete lack or before and after audio file, even those can be cheated a bit, doesn't speak well for the product IMHO. It's likely just adding pleasant odd order distortion.

    You can get similar products from other companies for less. http://www.music-group.com/Categorie...SX3040/p/P0582

  42. #442
    Storage? I am Storage! mubs's Avatar
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    Cool, thanks SD. Behringer has a ton of dealers here, very surprising. They have dealers in really remote places, but only one in my metro city! No matter, I'll call around Monday.

    How does this compare with the BBE series of similar equipment, would you know?

    BTW, it seems the recommendation is to place this in-line, just before the speakers. What I'd like to do is re-record my stuff using this so once I'm done with that, I can play the re-recorded music without this unit. Or am I totally missing the point here?

  43. #443
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    I don't think the unit is really intended for home use. More recording studio or live sound. Without knowing what it is that you're trying to process it's a little hard to say. Like the input format, the output format, etc. At first blush without knowing details, recording to your PC and processing the digital recording with some plugins and putting that to a CD seems like a better plan.

  44. #444
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stereodude View Post
    At first blush without knowing details, recording to your PC and processing the digital recording with some plugins and putting that to a CD seems like a better plan.
    Actually this suits my needs better than a discrete hardware device. 99% of my listening these days is at my PC.

    Most of the music I listen to is either live recordings with makeshift equipment or old - '50s thru '70s professionally recorded songs. In either case the recordings are low-fi - lacking bass and treble, or having only mid-range and treble, and missing harmonics, etc. Dull, flat. I have a BSR equalizer (8+8 channel, I think, haven't used it in 20 years) that I bought from DAK in the late '80s, but that makes the sound too bright and introduces harshness. I was thinking something like these units will correct a significant chunk of the problem. Of course it can't put back what ain't there in the first place, but at least the harmonics can be, and the phase shift problem can be corrected.

    Would be grateful for any pointers on processing software and plug-ins. Thanks.

  45. #445
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    Have you played around with Audacity?

    It supports VST plugins. I haven't really messed with it, but it gives you nearly unlimited options.

    http://www.audacityteam.org/download/plugins

  46. #446
    Storage? I am Storage! mubs's Avatar
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    Thanks. I do have Audacity and have used it only to chop off audio that I didn't want. The plugins page you linked to has links to other pages which are frighteningly humongous; it'll take me time to digest all that stuff!

  47. #447
    Fixture ddrueding's Avatar
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    I'm currently happy with all of my audio systems, but if you are in the market, I really respect this guys opinion.

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  48. #448
    Storage? I am Storage! mubs's Avatar
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    Thanks DD, these seem to be outstanding for the price! I've saved the info. These are out of range for now, since they need an amp to drive them pushing up the cost, plus there's no space for them near my monitor. Perhaps they'll be good to replace on my main stereo system, which is ~ 28 years old but still chugging along! 95% of my listening though is done at my PC using Logitech Z4 2.1 speakers, which are reasonably ok. Need of the hour is to fix the audio which is lo-fi, which made me revive this thread.

  49. #449
    Serial computer killer Hairy Aussie CougTek's Avatar
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    I'll show you something that deeply pisses me off.

    ELAC B5 Debut Series on Amazon.com : 230U$.

    ELAC B5 Debut Series on Amazon.com : 1063$CDN.

    Today, 1U$ is worth approximately 1.45$CDN. So the 230U$ speaker pair should be sold ~334$CDN. It is more than 3 times that.

    The worst part is that it isn't even a rare occurence. It happens quite often.

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by CougTek View Post
    I'll show you something that deeply pisses me off.

    ELAC B5 Debut Series on Amazon.com : 230U$.

    ELAC B5 Debut Series on Amazon.com : 1063$CDN.

    Today, 1U$ is worth approximately 1.45$CDN. So the 230U$ speaker pair should be sold ~334$CDN. It is more than 3 times that.

    The worst part is that it isn't even a rare occurence. It happens quite often.
    This happens in the US also. Your Amazon link has the item sold and shipped by HOPE FIRE who's probably price-gouging so put at least some of the blame on the reseller and not the difference between the US and Canada. The US link is sold and shipped from Amazon.

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